ICYMI: Prada! Fendi! Etro! Tod’s! The Fall Menswear Collections Pave A Bold New Way
The past several days saw a wave of groundbreaking Fall menswear shows. Though they varied in aesthetics and themes, one message was clear: men’s clothing is being crafted for a brighter future, and it’s being made to be worn.
It doesn’t matter if you don a vibrant mix of your favorite Etro pieces, a classic Tod’s set that’s ideal for lounging or going out in, or a layered, brightly-printed Prada look: they’re all destined to be treasured and put on for the sheer joy of loving colorful, textured, well-made clothing.
Read on for the lowdown of our favorite men’s collections of the season so far.
One of the schedule’s season’s most-anticipated shows, naturally, was Prada. The second collection co-designed by Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada highlighted textures, as evidenced by the colorful faux fur rooms (reminiscent of Simons’ first Dior haute couture show) that served as the show’s backdrop. Whether through plush leathers, mohair, or the brand’s signature nylon, tactile materials were front and center in every look.
The collection itself expertly merged both designers’ aesthetics. Compared to last season—which many saw as being composed of Raf-like pieces with Prada accents, or vice versa—the pieces were much smoother this time around. Both creatives’ penchant for vintage prints abounded, whether through mod-style geometric polos, argyle long johns, or an array of Art Deco-inspired patterns. Color also abounded through oversized sweaters, lined parkas, and boxy coats in a delicious array of yellows, pinks, reds, purples, and blues.
However, one of the biggest highlights was the redirected focus of Prada’s signature triangular logo. This time, it was cleverly referenced through numerous angular necklines and collars, as well as via vibrant gloves and bomber jackets which came accented with small zip pouches (and these are sure to sell out instantly!). It’s clear that Prada and Simons are more on the same page now than ever before—and we can’t wait to see what they create next.
In times like these, sometimes we just need to lighten up. At least, that’s the philosophy Kean Etro is bringing to his family’s brand this fall. For the upcoming season, the designer referenced the pastime that many likely dabbled in during quarantine: organizing, rediscovering, and repurposing pieces inside our closets.
What emerged was a vibrant collection filled with joy. Sharp neutral blazers and trousers were paired with brightly-colored t-shirts, sporty jackets, and bohemian jewelry. Silhouettes remained relaxed, as if showing us the ease of slipping on cable-knit sweaters, wide-leg pants, and soft hoodies (and pairing them with comfy sneakers or studded loafers) just for fun. Meanwhile, patterns ranged from the signature Etro paisley print to leopard, plaid, and floral. In short, this collection paid tribute to the clothes that make up our wardrobes, the comfort of beloved pieces, and those we’re dreaming of wearing in a post-COVID world.
The Tod’s Fall collection was shown on just one model: Italian actor and bona fide heartthrob Lorenzo Zurzolo. The 20-year-old star of Netflix’s Baby was shot exclusively for the brand’s new short film, #sevenT, which premiered on its YouTube channel.
Throughout the movie, Zurzolo strolls through the countryside, gazes out windows and runs lines, ever the thespian. His wardrobe serves as a tribute of sorts to the outdoors—pieces that keep their “fashion” status while also being practical and classic, continuing Walter Chiapponi’s storyline at the design house. Plaid, quilted, and sharp-collared outerwear is cast in an array of tans, beiges, and greens, with added flair from pockets, shearling, or a crisp “T” logo. Sumptuous textures came through in corduroy trousers, soft knits, and the buttery leather on bags and suede boots.
Youthful energy permeated the collection, as Zurzolo jumped down stairs or danced in the mirror while trying on outfits. Retro, 1970’s-esque décor also provided a soothing touch to the line: as if drawing a parallel between the past and the present. The contrast of the outdoor-worthy pieces being shot in an indoor setting can’t be overlooked either, as a clear reference to our human desire to be outside and connect with others. “To me it is a question of method. You just have to find your rhythm,” a voiceover declares at the end of the film. While it’s likely a tribute to the actor’s journey to placing themselves inside a new role, it also seemed like a reminder that we must adapt in the face of unfamiliar circumstances.
For Fall ’21, Silvia Venturini Fendi breathed new life into classic menswear staples. Set against a mesmerizing grid of color-changing lights, this collection is sleek, plush, and undoubtably futuristic. It also aims to predict how people will dress in the future.
Whether it’s business as usual in nine month’s time, or we’re still dressed for comfort inside our homes, there’s a Fendi piece here for any occasion: neutral and colorful overcoats came quilted, oversized, or taking the form of robes. Suits were cast in silks, and gray and tan trousers were ribbed or quilted (think: business-appropriate loungewear). Knee-length cream or yellow shorts are perfect for the early fall months, while knit turtlenecks and overalls are sure to protect from the late autumn chill. And no matter where you go—to the office or your living room—a boxy Baguette crossbody or puffy tote can carry whatever essentials you may need.
The show also featured several bold motifs, courtesy of artist Noel Fielding. Fielding’s abstract embroideries, almost like intricate curls of multicolored yarn, weaved their way through the collection. Standouts included slightly-cropped sweaters with central motifs, as well as an overcoat printed with multicolored “Fendi” calligraphy. However, the most show-stopping aspect came in the collection’s final act, which brought forth five monochrome looks in yellow, pink, green, orange, and blue. These perfectly combined business and comfort. Because these days, is there really a need to choose?